Day 3 - Contradictions

Back to the list

1. 'Complete' Fallout 4
2. 'Complete Homeworld 1 and 2 HD editions
3. Paint the remaining Raven Guard Warhammer 40k models
4. Hang around the Games Workshop store like a nerd
5. Go to 5 new museums or art galleries in Shanghai
6. Gym every other day
7. Plan teaching for the start of the new Semester. (TS unit, plus 1 week of Math + English)
8. EPIC gaming session in Diablo 3
9. Sort and take photos of Shanghai and other places
10. Take care of the wife I realise this isn't exactly the best way to say whatever I intended for this point. OOPS
11. BONUS: Trip to Hangzhou
12. DOUBLE BONUS: Keep this blog updated

Shanghai Poster Art Museum aka. The Propaganda Museum

Shanghai and China is a bunch of contradictions. One place this is shown from a recent historical perspective is the lovely and decidedly hidden Shangai Poster and Art Museum.

Can you see the sign?

You find it at the bottom of a residential tower, in the basement, and round a corner. And it is what many consider the best museum in Shanghai. Here is a repository of posters created for the masses and also for a overt political purpose. At first this was a grass roots, centralised expression of joy - or future joy - at the expected development of society by printers and intellectuals. Later work became directed by the state.

You might not be able to see it, but this is a poster celebrating democracy.

Here is where the contradiction is interesting. The work is shown in chronological order and as much as the style develops over time from the Shanghai Girls in the 1940s-50s towards the more utilitarian and 'proletarian' of the Cultural Revolution, the messages in the posters themselves change, revolve and eclipse each other. The poster about democracy is a good example, but another is the way in which the relationship of China and Russia are expressed. Or indeed, who are the imperialists? The US certainly, but not those in the US who are campaigning for equal rights (I imagine, until the civil rights situation improved, and then they were imperialists again).

I love these contradictions as much as they make me feel uneasy. In the end, it seems to me, that it shows quite how much of an experiment in governance Communism was. Those contradictions, those sudden changes of ideals, lack the depth of experience and thus were often struck down. Towards the end of the exhibit there is a poster which uses the face of Einstein and the quote "The only source of knowledge is experience." Maybe someone, somewhere, in authority realised this.

Just keep running, running-running.

I went to the gym today, to attempt my pledge to go every other day. In some ways this seems the lest likely of the list, as I can clearly see times when it wont be achieved. But I will try, from now. I hve waited until today to start as the last time I went I suffered from some pain and shortness of breath in my chest. It was nothing. But I thought a couple of days off was a good idea.

I completed 10k in 43 minutes and 16 seconds. Pretty happy with it! My best time was in the 42 minute bracket. But 43 minutes is great!

Day 2 - The Perils of Sleep

Some people, I am sure, are able to concentrate on little or no sleep. If you are one of these people I an glad and more than a little jealous. Maybe it is simply a matter of will that I lack, but for me, a poor night's sleep can be disastrous and extremely debilitating. This is the peril which faced me last night at 1 am. Despite being on holiday and seemingly free to choose my active hours, Sarah is not, and Sarah has to wake at 5:45 each morning. The result, well, a late start to the day's proceedings and a general sense of unsettledness.

The Day Today

Well in some ways despite the loss of the morning I have achieved many of the objectives I set out to do. The various domestic tasks were done or begun. I did a little bit of work, making the necessary arrangements for an author interview for my class. And I have visited the Shanghai Museum. Once this is done, I think some more quality Fallout time is in order!

The Shanghai Museum

I have visited the Shanghai Museum before. Last time I was here I wanted more. This time, less so. It almost sums up some of the cultural frustrations I have with China. There is lots of content, but the contextual understanding of each exhibit is almost entirely missing. You feel like the words in English next to an item should tell you more than just names and dynasties and that so-and-so was a "good calligraphist" (this is an actual quote). Something is missing, and I don't understand what.

That said, as a superficial immersion into historical Chinese culture I have seen nothing better. It is free, but there are limits to the numbers which can enter which in turn can cause long queues.

Despite my frustrations, I do think I enjoy this museum. The paintings along are worth the trip. There is something of the contradiction between simplicity and detail which really draws me in to the scene of many of the works. And for that I often found myself willing the timed lights to stay on a little longer so I could follow this brush-stroke slowly with my eyes to it's terminus.

 The Day Tomorrow

Tomorrow may have more of the similar... Domestic-work, work-work (hopefully the last I will need to do for a week or so), a museum and some gaming.

Day 1 - The Funny Thing Is...

...That I am not exactly sure what the point of doing this is!

Am I trying to internalise a bunch of things so they are once more ingrained/grooved in my mind and more easy for me to commit my time to? I mean, I feel like certain interests as I get older, are disconnected and more difficult to engage with. Could creating a plan for the free time I have now develop those grooves which will help me in the future focus on things I actually want to focus on?

Or is it an external thing? This is a blog after all, anyone, anywhere could read it and pass judgement. Someone could expect a post, and be disappointed when one does not appear either by missing some strange vicarious enjoyment he or she may have had or simply disappointment at my failure to complete something I set out on. Is this external pressure something good for me?

Finally, how about those pennies which come from the ads on this page? Honestly, I just enjoy seeing this trickle in for the once yearly "Yay! I made £2 again this year from blogging!" It's not this.

The Day Today

As a recap, here is THE LIST. In bold are things I worked on today.

1. 'Complete' Fallout 4
2. 'Complete Homeworld 1 and 2 HD editions
3. Paint the remaining Raven Guard Warhammer 40k models
4. Hang around the Games Workshop store like a nerd
5. Go to 5 new museums or art galleries in Shanghai
6. Gym every other day
7. Plan teaching for the start of the new Semester. (TS unit, plus 1 week of Math + English)
8. EPIC gaming session in Diablo 3
9. Sort and take photos of Shanghai and other places
10. Take care of the wife
11. BONUS: Trip to Hangzhou
12. DOUBLE BONUS: Keep this blog updated

I have three squads and a land speeder to complete for point 3. At the moment I am in the last hour or so of painting a tactical squad of Raven Guard space marines. If the last two sentences made no sense to you then fair enough, its pretty nerdy. Essentially what I am doing to painting very small models in surprisingly intricate detail and using painting techniques I have nowhere near mastered. I will keep posting pictures, and you can have a look at the links if you want to find out more.

The completed dudes.

Today, I painted some gray - which I mixed myself - on the models which were not completed (6) and then focused on one to get it done. Above is a picture of those which are finished. What do you think?

The other key thing I did from the list is play a bit of Fallout 4. A good Bethesda RPG. I've always played computer games. Though in recent times the enjoyment these have given me has reduced somewhat. I don't know why, maybe it's time to put such frivolities and time sinks behind me. But to hell with that. At least for now, I am going to sink days of my time in this one and Homeworld.

The Day Tomorrow

Tomorrow is the first day of the holiday proper. I am going to see about going to the Shanghai Museum and getting some photographs taken of Shanghai (5 and 9). I will try and get some final things of the previous semester of school tied up (pre-7), as well as complete a bunch of domestic chores (pre-10).

Freizeitstress

Three weeks of holiday. YESSSS!

Tye, he never suffered from Freizeitstress.

And what am I going to do with it? NOTHING

Well, not nothing. Actually a punishing list of 'things I want to complete'.

And below is the list. My objective is to write a post approximately every day to update on progress. In doing so I will conquer my 'Freizeitstress' with a list. I will gain that sense of completion through Gamification. I will achieve through an imposed sense of collective judgement through publishing the details on the internet.

It all makes sense.

The List

1. 'Complete' Fallout 4
2. 'Complete Homeworld 1 and 2 HD editions
3. Paint the remaining Raven Guard Warhammer 40k models
4. Hang around the Games Workshop store like a nerd
5. Go to 5 new museums or art galleries in Shanghai
6. Gym every other day
7. Plan teaching for the start of the new Semester. (TS unit, plus 1 week of Math + English)
8. EPIC gaming session in Diablo 3
9. Sort and take photos of Shanghai and other places
10. Take care of the wife
11. BONUS: Trip to Hangzhou
12. DOUBLE BONUS: Keep this blog updated

So there you have it. Posts 

One solution to Office 365 Installation Problems

I have been tearing my hair out. I really have. I have two laptops, one everything worked fine. The other, a set of inexplicable, contradictory and generally strange problems were ensuring higher blood pressure and no workable word processing functionality.

Anyway, If you are getting an error with any part of the Install or fix process of Office 365 then there is one simple solution.

Ensure that 'automatically detect settings' is ticked in Internet Explorer. Follow the steps below taken from this link.

 

Office 365 desktop setup uses the Windows Installer Service to download installation packages (also known as MSI files) for installing updates. Office 365 desktop setup may fail to download future updates if the Automatically Detect Settings option is not selected in your Internet Explorer settings. To enable automatic setting detection, use the following steps:

In your browser, click the Tools icon, and then click Internet options.

In the Internet options dialog box, click the Connections tab, and then click LAN settings.

In the Local area network (LAN) settings dialog box, select the Automatically detect settings check box, and then click OK.

If you continue to experience problems with updates not downloading, you may need to update your proxy server address. To do this, in the Local area network (LAN) settings dialog box, under Proxy server, select Use a proxy server for your LAN, and then enter a valid proxy server address (you can get this from your administrator).

Fixed. I am too frustrated right now to go into this more. Safe to say. ARRRRGHHHHHHHH!

E8: The Maps You Need in Ireland

A gaping hole in my blog posts so far has been the lack of actual information that would be at all useful to someone wishing to do the same route I did. With that in mind and prompted by Elizabeth who commented on my previous post I will go some way to rectifying this. As always, thanks for reading. :-)

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I used OSi maps for my hike, which can be found HERE.  These maps seemed - during my research - to be the only comprehensive maps that would cover the whole of the E8 route from Dursey to Dublin. A couple of comments, firstly they seemed a little expensive when I purchased them, all in I spent over €100 inc. shipping. Secondly they are not quite as accurate as you may be used to, with the Discovery Ireland series the best for walkers at a 1:50 scale, this might not be the 1:25 that you may be used to.

Above is a grid I found here that I have modified slightly to show the maps that cover the E8. I also found a more detailed version of the same thing (without my edits) here that may be better if you plan to print it off. The maps you need are the following.

• Discovery Series 84  
• Discovery Series 78     
• Discovery Series 68 
• Discovery Series 85 
• Discovery Series 81 
• Discovery Series 76 
• Discovery Series 74 
• Discovery Series 50
• Discovery Series 56 
• Discovery Series 80  
• Discovery Series 79  
• Discovery Series 75  
• Discovery Series 62 

Costing 7.57 each plus shipping.

Final comment. There is one very small section of the route that is not on the maps above, it is the link to get on to the Wicklow Way. It turned out to be a matter of 100-200 metres and I didn't want to spend the money on yet another map so assumed that I would be able to find my way. I didn't test it, but don't think it would have been a problem.

E8 Day 4: Kenmare to Killarney

The difference that a well tended path makes I cannot overstate. You see the photo above, this epitomised the first three days of walking on the Beara Way. Whilst it was beautiful the paths were very badly tended and signposted. When it rained, they became bogs. When it didn't, it had only just stopped raining so they were slippy without clear flat 'ledges' for your feet to safely follow. Now look at the picture below...

Yes, ok the weather there looks much better (it was! Actually, it was the best day's weather of the whole trip) but there is one important difference between the two pictures. There are wooden planks. These planks made much of Day 4's walking a dream; the comparison between the care given to the two paths was like night and day.

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I woke up with full force of a cold that had been brewing for days. But starting clean and with a full hearty breakfast in me helped me get going, and by the end of the day I had walked away from ailment and left it behind (for the moment). A boring long slow incline on a straight country road began the hike. I was glad for this. The difficult terrain of previous days had given me a new found love for tarmac. It did go on though. And on. And on. And then, to my despair, DOWN, before rising to the top of a ridge of mountains and a more cobbled path which turned out to be the Old Kenmare Road.

I ate a snack at the top and proceeded into one of the most pleasant experiences of the expedition. The weather had cleared and warmed. I strolled lazily down a solid but old path, which was crossed a couple of times by a fast stream. Once at the bottom of a wide bowl with only one building in sight for miles around, I think I found one of the most peaceful places on earth. Yes all that I had walked through before was a ranging torrent of water and mud and cold, and ahead I was such to have more of it, but right then and now I was surrounded by quiet.

Things changed again. The old path became more distinct as I went along. Old, mossy dry-stone walls began to follow it. I could almost imagine being caught up by the horse drawn carriage of some local gentry as I began again to go up toward the final peaks of the day; the Eskhamunky Gap between mountains Cromagan and Stumpcommeen (All these spellings, I think, are incorrect). The picture at the start of the post is from this section, where the distinctive track became bog, but this wasn't a problem because of the blessed wooden planks that ensured a dry passage on to the woods of the Muckross Estate.

This was becoming an easy day. I put one foot in front of the other and I didn't slip, feel the cold of mud up to my ankles or indeed the pull as the earth desired to keep my boots! It was glorious! And on arriving to the Muckross Estate I knew that the going would be good from here on till the end of the day. The estate is a contrast of artificial English gardening in south-west Ireland. A real treat for the feet and a chance of scene for the eyes, but at the same time somewhat out of place. It has a forest, which in itself is a novelty where much of the other trees of Ireland were cut down for fuel at various points in it's history. And it finally has acres and acres of good grass and lawns. This second aspect announced the immanent approach to Mucross Hall, a 'modest' stately home, and a chance to rest with a green tea. I did so then proceeded onto my next night's accommodation in the Paddy's Palace hostel in Killarney where I would enjoy a day off.

As I lay in my bunk bed reflecting on how things had gone so far I just wished that I had more of the Kerry Way to walk on and not the uncertainty of a new path; would it be as maintained as the dream I had just traversed, or as wild and boggy as on Beara?

E8 Day 3: Beara Camping to Kenmare

To anyone who is still reading this blog: I apologise. Life took a turn for the busy and I ended up focusing on everything apart from completing the tail of my hike. Here is day 3, I will recount it as best I can.

The night of the 2nd to the 3rd of March was cold. Very cold. Exceptionally cold. Well, by exceptionally cold I mean, it was exceptional that anyone would consider that 'camping' in a plastic shed in those temperatures would be a good idea. The weather was behaving as normal for that time of year. It snowed. I spent some time outside marvelling at the flakes as they fell, and the sinking realisation that I would face another rough day on the morrow. But first I had to survive the night. My notebook reads like the scraps of prose you found in a story designed to create suspense. I wrote, "It is so cold." in a scrawly end of the world script. And it was cold. Probably the coldest nights sleep I have ever had. My winter sleeping-bag, mummy liner, hat and all the clothes I had stuffed into the bag were nearly insufficient to ensure that I would wake up in the morning. (Maybe a little melodramatic! ;-) )

But awake I did. And whilst not refreshed, I had slept a few hours and was ready to move on. With shivering hands I collected all my things and walked the mile and a half back to the route.

Today's hike started with country tracks back to the Beara Way along the Clooney Loughs which were still and peaceful and seemingly deep. I took some time to pause and relax as I was back on the hike after such a troubling and cold night, by the loughs I had warmed up again and despite the feeling of a cold I was ready for another day's hike. I walked straight up another mountain which with today's mostly dry weather was much easier than similar sections on the previous days. Towards the top of the climb I turned around and took real pleasure from the view, I saw another ridge, the very same I had come down from on the previous day and I couldn't see how I had done it. I studied the slope and the ridge and, whilst logic and the map afforded me a probable location where I had come down, at all points it seemed impassable. I really felt like a hill walker at that moment.

On the other side of the climb I was able to spy my first view of a civilised population centre, not the whole town of Kenmare, but a small slice of it that hills and trees left unobstructed. But it was a goal. And it kept me going for the rest of the day. Hiking wise it was pretty easy with track becoming farm roads becoming a larger country road which eventually came out to a the main highway from the south to Kenmare. This last part was unfortunate with speedy cars interrupting the peacefulness I had come accustomed to. But again, the closeness to a real nights sleep in a real - and WARM - B&B kept any frustration caused by the trappings of civilisation minor in my mind. This road led on for some time and culminated in the bridge of Kenmare; never a greyer construction has been made by man. I left the Beara Peninsula, it was a sad moment. Whilst it had treated me roughly I had begun to truly appreciate it's wild beauty; I hope to return to here again.

The town of Kenmare was pleasant. The greeting I got by Mary at Hawthorn House was warm, which to me by this point was vitally important. I washed some clothes, had Irish Stew, my first (of 3!!! :-(  ) Guinnesses and slept in a nice soft bed.  

E8 Day Two: Ardgroom to Beara Camping

Repetition of previous map. You can see Ardgroom, Beara Camping is just north of the 3 lakes. Also the route is slightly different as I think this is the cycle route. The hiking route takes you over all the hills!

So day 2. Some people have commented that they are surprised I continued after that day. Well I put it down to a) the continued excitement of the trip, and b) the wonderful Hilda at the Panorama B&B; she really did do a great job of setting me up for another day's hike. I can't thank her enough!

With all my things packed and ready to go, Hilda offered that she would take me down to the start of the trail as the B&B was off the Beara Way by quite a distance. This I accepted with all thanks. I was straight on to the bog refreshed and fit.

The Bog.

Today's hike promised more variety of terrain, which I was looking forward to, but started with the same. Also the day was cooler, much cooler, but broadly dryer. It was also clearer, and as I climbed up the mountain I managed to see some really great sea/harbour views for the first time since I put my first foot forward at Dursey Head. The coast here is - unsurprisingly - stunning, but also working. And it is this low impact fishing industry (Muscles and Crab) which adds to the beauty here instead of detracts.

You can see the Iveragh Peninsula on the other side of the bay.

I continued over the gap between Drung Hill and Keecragh Mountian, which began to harden and become more rocky. Steep in places, it really got my legs going again. The path slowly declined into a depressions with running streams criss-crossing the turf and at one point almost ending the hike there when one stream crossed the path, the girth, depth and flow of the water created a real challenge. I spent some time here, alone, working out if crossing the water was even possible! To the point that, in more frustration than sense, I practised throwing my pack to see if that was an option. I felt it was more than likely that, here, well away from anyone else who could help, I (and more importantly my pack!) would be soaking wet and the hike would have to be called off!

The offending 'stream'.

After discounting a bunch of daft ideas and crossing points I decided to risk it on one where the key disadvantage was the trust I would need to place on submerged stones with my weight and the hope that the stream wasn't as forceful as I expected. I crossed. Breathed a sigh of relief. And continued.

To me, all human endeavour, even if it's reasons can only be speculated upon through the distance of time, is interesting. What is it that truly motivates people to create something, despite the effort and costs involved? Stone circles are one such feature that falls into this category. It is tricky to see and feel the weight of meaning behind their construction and existence. What would someone who had had a hand in lugging the huge stones to remote locations truly have felt when they saw the completion of their work? I just don't know. Even so, in Ireland, a sense of stately nature is retained and they form the perfect spot for pause and reflection when on a long hike, whilst the weather holds out that is!

The Stone Circle at Cashel Keelty.

Another gap, this time between Knockatee and Drombohilly was approached to via Lauragh Village and a bunch of small country roads/paths. I didn't realise quite how much I would relish the hard, artificial surface that brings modernity to the isolated and unspoilt countryside, but I am afraid I did. After nearly two days of walking on, through, in, within bogs I was ready for somewhere to walk that didn't need constant attention. The traffic was light, and I welcomed the small moment of interaction between me and passing drivers. One highlight of my little foray into civilisation was an old petrol pump advertising Guinness!

Baaaaa!

 

The final section up and over the gap was difficult. I focused on regular pauses at each of the way markers as the path became increasingly steep. It nearly did me in. I vowed that I would do more to support myself, eat more snacks, drink more water and take more breaks. Once through the gap the decent was tricky for the first half until the path followed a concrete farmers track which joined the Cloone Loughs within a beautiful valley headed by a spectacular waterfall (which I was only able to view from a distance). 

The next day's hike was almost straight over those hills!

 To get to my next overnight stop I had to walk some way off the Beara way. But as it was on roads it was pretty good going despite the rain worsening. My body wasn't playing up too much, but it had just had enough and I was glad to see that the campsite was actually closer than I had expected. I knocked, waited, and was greeted by a lovely Dutch couple who owned the place. Beara Camping it seemed was busy during the proper tourist seasons, but, for this year, I was the first visitor! This was turning into something of a habit, this part of Ireland really does not open until at least mid March. My stay here was free, which was good, but mostly that was because there were no working toilets or showers. I did have access to a gas cooker and made myself some warm food in the communal barn.

Beara Camping

I had planned to camp, but was offered a little plastic shed thing to stay in over night which was nice. Especially because it snowed that night. Temperatures dropped to below freezing and was not entirely pleasant. (Though I was warm when in my sleeping bag)

E8: Day one; Dursey Head to Ardgroom

A good map of the route. I took the northern path.

More photos, less rambling... I hear you! ;-)

The first days walking started with a Taxi. Essentially there is no way to get to the start of the hike via public transport. But before I start, here are some facts about the Beara Peninsula.

• It is beautiful.
• It is very remote.
• The 236 bus route from Cork to Castletownbere is the most expensive to run in Europe. It is subsidised 85% by the council.
• The reason that the Beara Peninsula has not gone the touristic way of the Iveragh Peninsula and Killarney is because the roads are so narrow that coaches can't go all the way around.
• After the walk I read The Edge of Ireland, a book which highlights the rich spiritual and artistic heritage and people of the Beara Peninsula. Including a Buddhist retreat called Dzogchen Beara, the enduring traditions of Seanachi (keepers of oral history) and a plethora of artists, musicians and craft producers. (Most of which I missed out on with my demanding hike.)

The above and so much more, I will say now, means that I have promised to myself that I will go back there. It is just a magical place. 

A dilapidated sign for the 'Last Light Ceremony' that was conducted at the end of the Millennium. 

My Diary reads...

"Hot shower! Yes!"

...As the first line from the 1st March. With the Lodge being - at least officially - closed no hot water or heating had been in action for weeks and despite my three day bus journey I wasn't able to have a shower until the morning, which seemed doubtful when I went to be. Oh, what levels of appreciation you achieve for the small things when you embark on adventures!

It is then followed by..

"Well, today's hike was harder than expected."

The reality of the hike hit me pretty hard. I was suffering from a cold, which didn't help, and my pack was much too heavy for the sort of walking I had planned.

The day started well. The taxi was on time and when I arrived at the start of the Beara Way I was in good spirits, the sight of the water surging though Dursey Sound was very powerful alongside the craggy coastline (which reminded me of the very best of the North Cornish coast), and it wasn't raining (yet!). I started the walk. It felt amazing! I was actually doing it. Elation filled me to the brim and I couldn't believe I had actually arrived. It was quite emotional really.

Me, feeling pretty chuffed to actually be at the start of something that was months in the planning.

This, I was soon to find out, was a DRY path!

The path began with a good incline on alternating damp/slippy vegitation and rocky terrain. Some scrambling was required in places which was a little precarious with the wind. Also something which I was going to have to get used to was the nature of the path itself, often it was badly signposted and had no visible signs of it's existence. Which isn't necessarily a problem, but it became tricky once it rose into the cloud cover and visibility dropped dramatically.

 On the way I met Michael - a Tipperary man - who started just before me and I caught up with him soon after the first hill. With two hiking poles and two gps trackers he was remarkably more kitted out than me and was infinitely more experienced in the sorts of walking I was going to have to do; Bog Walking! We stayed together up until Allihies, with a promise that we were not able to fulfil, to meet up again further along the hike when I was closer to his home. I learnt quite a bit from this encounter (thank you Michael!), but it was also a real boost to my spirits to walk with someone else. My plan for the hike was always to do it alone, little did I know how draining solo-hiking can be on the spirit and how much the chatter and companionship of someone, even a total stranger, on a long hike such as this is so important.

The weather got worse and worse as the day progressed. Most of the hike was in the clouds and visibility was poor. Around Allihies the walk is along country roads which lead up to the old mine workings of Anhillies mine workings and the Slieve Miskish Mountians. This disused mine workings were in various states of disrepair but very interesting to see. That said I wasn't really in a position to appreciate them...

"Alone I climbed. And climbed. And cursed my heavy bag, the weather and my lack of training. The distraction of good conversation had gone. I motivated myself with a Cream Egg."

I was pretty grumpy at this point, but then I spent the next couple of hours negotiating the turf, bogs and hills that led towards Ardgroom. This was a point which almost broke me. The walk was treacherous, going up the mud clinged to and infested your boots. Going down every step could see you fall and slide into puddles of mud and sheep droppings. It was a continual trial that sapped the strength, it was not a day to be out on a walk.

"I fell, slipped, skidded, tumbled and was generally consumed by the bog. The highlights of this section - the Mass Rock, the Mines, the sea and soothing roar of the waves - were eclipsed by the wet, the mud and the rotting vegetation. The hillside had effectively erupted with little streams of rainwater and micro-waterfalls that filled the land."

 I eventually arrived at Eyeries. I sat, in a slight lull in the rain, steeling myself for the final 10 kilometres. About 3km along the country road someone pulled over, offered me a lift and I accepted. I was done in. But luckily I had the Panorama B&B to look help me recover that night, and what a wonderful salvation it is for a tired and demoralised hiker! More on this next time.

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Thanks once again for reading this blog. Turned out to have more words in it than I expected! OOPS! Oh and the walk wasn't all bad, just this section was a shock. Things perk up much more further along. ;-)

Please comment and share.

E8: The Arrival

I left Prague at 5pm on Wednesday the 26th February. In doing so I was embarking on the most adventurous trip I had ever done. To hike over 550 km (340 miles) solo across a country I had never been to at a particularly poor time of year for the weather and with a full pack (which I never weighed) including tent, winter sleeping bag, food and water (read: v.heavy)! I was as excited as I had been in a very long time, after a difficult time for me I had put all my energies into planing, booking and now departing on a real challenge.

Anthony the Unready?

I had always planned to get to Ireland by plane. I checked the prices one week and completed the whole budgeting process. Then, when it was time to book the week afterwards, the price had jumped from approximately £35 single to £100 (without accounting for baggage). I was mortified. Perhaps the trip, which was running on the most fragile of shoestrings, would have to be cancelled! I did some digging around for alternatives and found a bus. Well... 4 buses that would take me the whole way from Prague to Adrigole Ireland in 3 days and two nights. 3 days and 2 nights on buses, with 6 hours in London and 3 in Dublin. I must have been a bit mad, but the price was right - £100 in total plus saving at least one nights accommodation cost - and I had always wanted to go on a long distance bus for some unfathomable reason. So I left Prague on a Student Agency bus (£30 Prague - Dublin, BARGAIN!) that would travel through the Czech Republic, Germany, Luxembourg, Belgium and France, through most of which I was asleep.

I wrote in my Diary...

"The Bus has just been processed by Passport control for both the French and the English authorities within 100 metres of each other. I just realised that I don't actually know how we will be crossing the English Channel! It is a little unnerving. I will just have to wait and see. Within the next hour I could be on a ferry for the first time since I was a child the Channel Tunnel for the first time in my life!"

It turned out to be the Channel Tunnel which was decidedly underwhelming and boring. With nothing to do in a hollow tube of a train carriage and the bus with no entertainment system as it had to turn it's engine off. Oh well, it still was a first for me!

With some time in London I planned the day before to meet up with an old friend, Chris. We met on his lunch break on a nice early Spring day and on his lunch break where a particularly nice burger was consumed (Thanks Chris!). The walk I took from Victoria Coach Station to Soho where he worked had one interesting monument in the way, Buckingham Palace where I saw the Prime Minister speeding away in a horse drawn carriage and took a bunch of photos which didn't really come out properly!

Best of a bad bunch.

I then had another overnight bus to contend with. This one was run by Eurolines and cost £35 (Double BARGAIN!) and would take me all the way to Dublin, and this time I knew it would partly be by ferry. In comparison the Eurolines bus service is far behind the Czech Student Agency service. On Student Agency you get free hot drinks and a particularly entertainments system full of films, music and a couple of TV series. On Eurolines you get none of that. A shame really.

On arrival to Dublin I met a couple of nice people on and off the bus who I chatted with for a while as we waited in Dublin's Busáras. I had my picture taken by a random unsuspecting bus. And waited for another wheeled vehicle of bum-numbing despair which would take me to Cork (£35!).

This is starting to sound like one long string of buses. So all I will add is I arrived in cork with just enough time to go to the toilet and comfortably wait around at the correct bus stop. No anxiety, slight boredom and an almost successfully completed journey!

A castle seen from the Bus. I hoped that I would get to see more of this on the trip. I didn't so I suspect that a return to Ireland is a distinct possibility at some point... In a car!

Irish Weather. Irish Hills. (Dry) Irish fields. Picture taken from the bus.

 It turned out that in the weeks before my arrival the Beara Peninsula had suffered a MIGHTY STORM. The net result of which was to cause difficulties for me on my arrival to Adrigole and the 'Peg's Shop' bus stop. I got off and frequented the said Peg's shop for supplies then strolled the 200 metres of country lane, continually astounded by the wonderful, stark and enrapturing Beara countryside (more on this in a subsequent post). I arrived at the Hungry Hill Lodge, and it was closed. I looked at my phone, no signal. I entered the grounds of the Lodge, no-one was there. So, concerned that I would have to camp out for the night, I trudged back up to Pegs Shop in the hope that they could phone someone off the landline for me.

The Kitchen at the Hungry Hill Lodge, my first night's accommodation.

Since the MIGHTY STORM all mobile and most internet services across the Beara Peninsula had been broken. This meant that I could not contact the owner of the Hungry Hill Lodge, said owner didn't know that I had a booking and I was not able to contact home to tell Sarah that everything was ok and I was set to start the walk. A bit of a disaster on the side, everything about me was fine, but the peripheral things that would have made the start comfortable and easy had suddenly and surprisingly failed because of the failure of technology. Still I couldn't grumble, once contacted the owner came to the Lodge within 5 minutes, I had a warm roof over my head and the owner of the Hungry Hill Lodge - who turned out to be from Coventry - was welcoming. All in all I could count this as a good start to my Irish E8 Adventure!



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Thanks for reading this first instalment of the hike. I promise that they will get shorter! Please take the time to comment and if you know anyone who might be interested in these adventures please share on Facebook, Twitter or anything!

E8: The Return

To start, I would like to thank everyone who has been keeping half an eye on this blog for their patience and support in my endeavour to complete the Irish E8. Your support was and continues to be the driving force for what I achieve. Even if you are just a number in the 'views' part of the management of this blog, or someone who comments, or indeed someone in my personal life who has given advice and encouragement, thank you!

Now to business.

I am back in Prague. Early. I did not complete the hike, in fact I did about 1/3 of it. There are a bunch of reasons why I stopped, but the main problem came down to the loneliness of the hike. This is something that I will explore in more detail in future blog posts.

From Dursey Head at the start, I got as far as Mallow, Something like 150-200 km of the most strikingly beautiful, desolate, wet, boggy, magical, peaceful, wet, muddy, hilly, constantly engaging and wet countryside I have ever walked. I feel proud of myself for going, and very happy to be back to the real world.

That means I completed the planned sections of the Beara Way (North coast)...

...Kerry Way (Kenmare - Killarney)...

...(Blackwater) Dunhallow Way in full...

And part of the (Blackwater) Avondu Way (as far as Mallow).

At Mallow the B&B was opposite a main line train station that went directly to Dublin. This proved too much of a temptation (salvation?) at the time. I ended up the next morning on a train to the capital and then doing the double-bus shuffle back to Prague.

Over the next month I will be blogging my experiences of the walk. I kept a diary each day, and there was something about walking solo across essentially empty country (I met 2, yes, 2(!) walkers the whole 8 days) that brings forth coherent thought. I hope you will stick with me as I recount this tale of unending bogs and the kindness of B&B owners. Also there are some pretty good pics!

Quick Post: Ads

Dear one and all!

I am a poor decrepit soul, and I needs the monies. In the endeavour to get the monies I have enabled ads on this site. I would be very appreciative if you gave them your full attention and, if relevant to you, please click!

Unfortunately there is a problem that Google seems to focus on your location when determining what language the ads should be in. This sort of issue regarding language being driven by location is a frustration within Google in general, but with regards to ads it is a critical problem. I am investigating the issue with Google to see if there is a solution. But please, if you have any experience - and hopefully - a solution to the problem then please get in touch.

More interesting posts coming soon, including tales from my E8 hike and exciting planning for my next big adventure - CHINA!

E8 Progress Update - Leaving Dublin

Well I've got this far...

Ok, well the photo isn't the best. Incase you can't make it out, the photo is taken from the X8 bus south towards Cork of what I believe are the Wicklow Mountains.

All is well, the cold I have had seems to be leaving me. My pack is holding up. And everything has gone to plan so far! I have even met a couple of people and had some lovely chats. :-)

Walking starts tomorrow, I can't wait! (Almost as much as I can't wait for the shower I will have tonight!)

All Packed....!

...and ready to go!
(Well nearly, there is always something else to do!)

Tomorrow I will be leaving Prague on the 5pm bus to London. The next day I get a bus to Dublin. And the following day a Bus to Adrigole in deepest darkest (I hope not, the pictures on Street View look lovely in good weather!) Ireland.

E8 Preview: East Munster Way

I leave the Blackwater Way knowing that I am past half way on the walk. We now turn to the East Munster way from Clogheen to Carrick on Suir.

Once again stolen from irishtrails.ie. Thanks! 

Much of this route follows the River Suir and ducks (ok, poor choice of word, more like slogs) into the foothill of the Comeragh mountains at various points; seemingly this happens when the path has nothing better to do, like go to a village!

Clogheen is the start of this section, named in Irish Chloichín an Mhargaid, meaning "Little Stone of the Market" and comprises 509 people. It has an interesting history in the 18th and 19th Centuries of Catholic rebellion against established Church and taxes which is something I will likely look into more at a later date. The hike then moves back into the Knockmealdown Mountains and follows the River Glenboy into the Russellstown Forest and the little village of Newcastel.

The next key point of interest is Clonmel which did it's best to resist Cromwell and the commonwealth forces; there was a well fought siege here in 1650. I will then end in Carrick on Suir.

One thing that is missing from this overview is the levels of wildlife that I expect on this part of the route. Everywhere I read information commenters highlight the rural and wild nature of this part of the E8. It sounds great to me, and I am really looking forward to it.

E8 Preview: Blackwater Way Part 2 - Avondhu

The Avondhu is where the very first Irish set out on a long journey as early stone age hunter-gatherers to become our first farmers. It is where the spiritual and mystical druids embraced Christianity and went on to contribute to European Enlightenment in the Dark Ages. It is where we absorbed waves of invasions, taking the best from each to emerge as a people distinct in Europe.  It is where armies of thousands gathered to take on the Might of Napoleon at Waterloo and later the Triple Alliance of Germany, Austria-Hungary and Italy in the Great War.

The Avondhu, The Cradle of Ireland, is where Ireland started, where the very first Irish set out on that long journey more than 10,000 years ago.  It is the mother land for millions around the globe.

Continuing along the Blackwater Way and the E8 I will come to the Avondu Way and if the above quote taken from the Avondhu Heritage Archive is anything to go by it will be quite a section.

Map stolen from here, and the excellent irishtrails.ie. 

The first people in Ireland probably arrived and settled here, probably using the Blackwater as a key transport route. Similarly Christianity entered Ireland in a similar fashion and I am told (again by the Avondhu Heritage Archive) that wherever I see a Christian site I will hear the running of water. Half way along the Avondhu way I first come across the River Blackwater which has, I am told, some of the best salmon fishing in the whole of the British Isles! Wow!

Between Mallow and Fermoy there are the Nagles Mountains/Sliabh an Nóglaigh which don't have a particularly high peak, will make this section a little tough.  This is followed by Ballyhooly and it's Castle, actually a 16th Century Tower House used to guard a ford in the river Blackwater.

Fermoy is the key settlement in the area, and the first chance at sleeping in a bed over the whole of the Blackwater way! In Irish it is called Mainistir Fhear Maí, meaning "monastery of the Men of the Plain". The monastery it mentions is a 13th Century Cistercian Abby that was closed by Henry VIII. It is also the town that John Anderson built (a 17th Centry Scots entrepreneur who developed the infrastructure of the region) and the site of the first IRA armed attack on the British army in September 1919.

Clogheen (I will cover this town in my next post) and the Knockmealdown Mountains will end this part of the hike. Knockmealdown has two interpretations of the Irish origins of its name, either Cnoc Mhaoldomhnaigh: Muldowneys' Hill or Cnoc Maol Donn: bald brown hill. And it has a folk song associated with it. Information taken from Wikipedia. LINK.

This mountain range was celebrated in the folk song, "Kitty Bawn O'Brien" by Allister MacGillvary of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. The song is a lover's lament for a young woman who emigrates from Ireland to Canada. Knockmealdown is mentioned in the first and the final stanzas, as follows:

Kitty Bawn O'Brien by Allister MacGillvary

A soft wind blowing sweet and warm.

From the peaks called Knockmeal Down.

The songbird signs his cheery notes above Black Water Sound.

From my heart all joys depart, no beauty can enthrall, my Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal.

I met her at the Mallow Fair, where lovers sport and play.

I watched her feet trip lightly as a piper droned her way.

She sang a song so lilting there, her hands beneath her shawl, now Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal.

I followed her to Waterford the day the ship set sail.

Her mother let the tears down fall, her father's cheeks were pale.

I kissed her there, I lost her there, now sadly I recall, my Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal.

And far across the ocean wide a world from Knockmeal Down, my Kitty shines like silver in some far Canadian town.

She'll charm some French soldier there, I can't blame him at all, my Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal.

A soft wind blowing sweet and warm, from the peaks called Knockmeal Down.

The songbird signs his cheery notes above Black Water Sound.

From my heart all joys depart, no beauty can enthrall, my Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal, my Kitty Bawn O'Brien's gone to far off Montreal.